One If By Land, Two If By Sea Restaurant Review: Some things do get better with time and age, and this Greenwich Village landmark known for its romantic atmosphere is one of them. Set in an eighteenth-century carriage house once owned by Aaron Burr, the bi-level dining room is splendid and the kitchen, under executive chef Samuel Freund, turns out updated classics and contemporary dishes. The humble street entrance doesn't prepare you for the interior, where a fireplace glows and waiters in black tie move suavely about. It is hard to imagine a date, a relative, or an out-of-town business guest who would not be flattered by a dinner here. The seasonal menu may start with duck terrine of pistachio, apricot, prunes, red onion jam and toasted brioche before continuing with rack of lamb with fig compote, cipollini onions and black trumpet mushrooms. The desserts are solid, with the red velvet---nougat glace, red velvet hearts, raspberry foam, pomegranate caviar and white chocolate raspberry ganache---getting our nod as the choice ending if the cheese plate does not tempt you. The wine list is topnotch with some attractive prices across a wide range.
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