 Mimicking the ocean tides that echo in the background, chefs come and go at One Pico. Currently, Michael Reardon oversees the menu, executed by chef Gregory Llewellyn. We have to say the pair is a winning one; this is the best cooking we've experienced over the years. The restaurant is pleasantly decorated in clear tones under a high wooden ceiling and exposed beams, with elegant, widely spaced tables. It remains romantic, with the moon's rays glittering on the Pacific through the palm trees and the massive fireplace (though we are not sure about the photograph on top of the mantel). Being so close to the water, you will probably be in the mood for seafood. And it would be a good choice, because the quality and freshness are above reproach. Start with the shaved bluefin tuna seasoned with Sicilian olive oil and arugula, the grilled octopus, the fish soup or the fritti misti (crisp calamari, clams, vegetables). The roasted beef salad with black truffles and goat cheese is a light starter option. You will not want to share the thin shrimp ravioli with garlic and oregano: they are too good. The grilled John Dory was exactly the way it should be, retaining its unique taste, a flavor we don't always find in restaurants. The branzino's skin was crunchy, and the fish was accompanied by polenta and parsley salad. Meat eaters will find pork belly or a juicy rib-eye steak. Artisan cheeses are available before a walnut meringue, a chocolate lava cake or citrus parfait. You will find the wine list on the back of the menu with selections from Northern California, France, Italy and Spain. The service is professional and courteous.
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