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One Restaurant Restaurant Review: One’s spacious kitchen is visible from every table in its sleek, contemporary dining room. If you prefer a setting more conducive to conversation than a floor show, the cozy bar may be the better venue for dinner. Chef Sean McCarthy offers a creative menu that includes vegetarian dishes such as roasted mushroom and lentil soup, house-made gnocchi with ratatouille, and a Gruyère-laden wild mushroom pizza. We like the heartier fare, such as Moroccan lamb tagine, and roasted chicken with tarragon shallot butter. Lunch offerings tend toward lighter, less complex items (sandwiches and salads) and some intriguing soups. Consider, too, the squid ink tagliatelle with fresh littleneck clams in a creamy white wine sauce (available at dinner as well). Conclude with apple confit served with rosemary ice cream or a Meyer lemon tart with saffron ice cream. The globally sourced wine list includes rare bottles from France and Italy; the depth in Champagne, sparkling wine and Burgundy, both red and white, is singular. Knowledgeable servers can guide you to delightful pairings.