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ONE restaurant Restaurant Review: ONE restaurant has had a strong reputation since it opened in 2010 in the upscale Meadowmont community of Chapel Hill. But the contemporary establishment was made over in summer 2013 to accommodate the mission of chefs Kim Floresca and Daniel Ryan. The couple brings notable credentials, having previously worked in the kitchens of Per Se (New York), The French Laundry (Napa Valley), Alinea (Chicago), elBulli (Roses, Spain), and The Restaurant at Meadowood (Napa Valley). Flavor combinations are seasonal and often whimsical: caramelized milk gnudi with radicchio, green apple and wood vinegar; pork with spring pollen garnished with grapefruit, crispy broccoli and fennel salad; lemon meringue speckled with black sesame, rhubarb and bergamot ice cream. All are delivered with precision. Regional ingredients find their way into dishes, such as ramps and Carolina flounder and tilefish. If you’re too overwhelmed to decide what to order, trust Floresca and Ryan to create the multi-course tasting menu, which may optionally be paired with wines. ONE has assembled a vast wine list to satisfy the most demanding oenophile, who may ogle selections displayed in floor-to-ceiling racks.