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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED ONE Restaurant & Lounge Restaurant Review: Chef Scott Snodgrass and his business partner Lee McCullough teamed up to launch ONE Restaurant & Lounge. While Snodgrass toils diligently in his open kitchen, McCullough likes to be on the front lines. Char-grilled oysters are a New Orleans favorite, and Snodgrass defines them with a melt of Roquefort and red wine vinaigrette. Main courses change frequently, but generally run from coq au vin with grilled chicken sausage and either grits or potato and white truffle croquettes, to pan-fried flounder atop a spaghetti squash gratin. The cochon de lait rides the plate with stone-ground grits, sweet red cabbage and pork cracklins. The daily dessert menu is recited, but strawberries with house-made Bavarian cream on a biscuit-style shortcake is the one to target. ONE’s wine list roams the planet, offering interesting selections from France to California and including a good number by the glass. A hearty Argentinean Malbec would make a fine choice with much of the food. The service staff’s casual yet attentive attitude and the lively, noisy room don't always meld with the classy food, but few locals seem to object. Fight for a seat at the “food bar” to watch chefs in harmony preparing a meal you will not soon forget.