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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED One Star Ranch Restaurant Review: Texas rules at this rustic spot in Buckhead, where a taxidermied armadillo and other iconography evocative of the Lone Star State grace the walls. One Star takes ribs seriously, and the beef ribs are the best, although baby-backs also are available. Fourteen hours of slow cooking yield a fall-apart-tender rib that’s monstrous and meaty, and big enough to serve two. Side dishes to savor include beans, although they've gotten a bit sweet for our tastes, and very good slaw that's chopped fresh every morning. Onion rings are plump, and the chili is full of flavor and spice. Good smoked chicken and smoked turkey take the heat off those who won't eat red meat. We also like the sausage. For dessert, check out the cobblers. Long neck brews are the best quaff. Farai Jana, originally from Zimbabwe, oversees the cooking. Frank Bonk, the owner, keeps a close eye on the kitchen.