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one-thirtyone Restaurant Review: For a little romance, whisk your significant other away into Hong Kong's unexpectedly bucolic New Territories to the seaside town of Sai Kung, about 45 minutes by taxi. You'll pass a row of wooden boats that once floated along Three Fathoms Cove, now revitalized as this restaurant's herb garden. Continue past the iron gates and across the lawn to the terra cotta-hued three-story historic house overlooking the South China Sea. The intimate downstairs dining room, with exposed beams and French doors, seats only 25, so advance bookings are essential for the well-priced four-course lunch and six-course dinner. Hong Kong-born chef Caith Chow cooked his way around Europe then at Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong's Krug Room before landing here. Ingredients come from the surrounding organic farm and go into a menu that changes daily, so that the foie gras swathed in black truffle and served with port-soaked prune on brioche tonight may be stuffed inside prosciutto-wrapped French guinea fowl tomorrow. Elegantly presented are the appetizer of frothy cappuccino of wild mushroom with winter truffle and mains like lamb shoulder with organic lavender chutney, a fresh alternative to classic mint. Desserts do not break new ground, but incorporate organic fruits like strawberries into European classics such as crème brûlée and tiramisu. French bottles dominate the respectable wine list.