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Orsa & Winston

122 W. Fourth St. (S. Spring St.) Send to Phone
213-687-0300 | Make Restaurant Reservations | Menu
Ambitious, multi-cultural dining concept from prolific downtown chef/restaurateur Josef Centeno.
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Local Deals: 120 * 90

Lunch Tues.-Fri., Dinner Tues.-Sat.
  • Dress code: Casual dressy

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Orsa & Winston, Los Angeles, CA

Orsa & Winston Restaurant Review

: Prolific chef/restaurateur Josef Centeno has emerged as a dominant force downtown, particularly with the addition of upscale Orsa & Winston to an innovative portfolio that includes Bäco Mercat and Bar Amá. The tiny glass-sheathed storefront, seating just over 30 guests, is sparingly decorated, with Centeno’s open kitchen anchoring the scene. The restaurant is casual, but the prix-fixe menus --- options include five courses, nine courses and a 20-plus course “super omakase” offered only at the chef’s counter --- are formally presented, complete with amuse-bouches, palate cleansers and petits fours. There are a few optional courses offered, and we strongly recommend beginning with the velvety, almost-as-good-as-foie-gras chicken liver mousse. Soft, buttery Japanese milk bread with togarashi-dusted butter is added between courses, with highlights that usually include the restaurant’s signature maple-flavored coddled egg. Served in its shell with pancetta and balsamic whipped cream, it’s reminiscent of the famed dish at L’Arpège in Paris. Other standouts are koshihikari rice risotto with uni, topped with geoduck foam, and a notable squab. The bird is cooked medium rare and might be plated with grapes, mascarpone-filled agnolotti and a lovely pine nut purée. The wine list is eclectic and interesting, with hard-to-find, relatively affordable labels from Spain, France and Italy showcased. Nicely executed, although less interesting than the preceding courses, desserts include chocolate and hazelnut cake with rosemary-butterscotch ice cream and crème fraîche, and pear-ricotta strudel. Orsa & Winston is representative of L.A.’s fine dining evolution. The crisp linen and hushed environment may be gone, but very few compromises are made in the kitchen.

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