Orsay Restaurant Review: Housed in the space that was once the socialite hangout Mortimer's, this swank brasserie, complete with Art Nouveau-style ceiling molding, wood paneling and chandeliers, inherited the former occupant's celebrity vibe. The menu is mostly classic dishes with a few adventurous twists; for instance, a tartare niçoise combines salmon with potato, haricots verts, capers, boiled egg and pesto. Florida red snapper and grilled meats are straightforward. Daily specials almost always please, and they include lobster salad with green beans, grapefruit, orange confit tomato and mustard dressing; coq au vin; a juicy prime rib that's carved tableside; and a lovely bouillabaisse. Waiters seem convinced that everyone who dines at Orsay must want a side of frites with their dinner and seem shocked if you pass them over for a side of asparagus, despite the obviously upscale environs.
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