THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Orson

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Orson Restaurant Review:

This industrial-chic spot in SoMa (the second venture from über pastry chef Elizabeth Falkner) takes its name from Orson Welles, and features a bi-level, warehouse-style feel with a striking, dark color palette and central marble-topped bar. The restaurant is popular among the cocktailing crowd for creations like the refreshing celery gimlet. After a rocky start last year, Falkner has taken over behind the stoves, but, despite simplifying the menu, results are still mixed: a novel Caesar salad, for instance (with "spheres" of dressing and "pop rocks"), is pretty, but difficult to dissect. Her thin-crust pizzas have just the right amount of chewiness and several decadent toppings to choose from. Entrées run the gamut from highly conceptual to rustic, such as tender short ribs served with ricotta "gnudi." As expected, her desserts are highly creative, even incorporating savory elements, such as a mascarpone tart with blood orange sorbet and poached beets. Overall, Falkner should be credited for her originality and flair, but it still doesn't feel like Orson lives up to her considerable talent.