THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Osteria Isola

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Osteria Isola Restaurant Review:

The lower half of the long-awaited (two-and-a-half years and £4 million in the making) Knightsbridge showcase for Italian food has less elevated aspirations than upstairs Isola, though prices are still high. Osteria is a state-of-the-art diner with the kitchen visible at the back. Yet tables and booth-backed seats are cleverly arranged at different levels and angles so that you feel shielded from neighbours (Conran, are you reading this?) Under the direction of gifted Frenchman Bruno Loubet, Italian country dishes, loosely arranged into courses, have a smooth assurance. No expense has been spared sourcing ingredients, and from the olive oil with homemade grissini and breads to the cheeses, they are impeccable. This is evident in glorious ravioli stuffed with beetroot, sage and horseradish, and mouth-watering secondi such as steamed clams, mussels and cockles with vermouth, chilli and garlic; slow-roast lamb with anchovies and olives Roman-style, or Livornese fish stew for around £15. The all-Italian wine list is mind-boggling. It could be more helpfully arranged, but groups of taster glasses are a marvelous introduction to what’s available. Fun, informal Italian dining, but deeply serious about the country’s food and wines.