 Pacific Dining Car, possibly the best (certainly the priciest) restaurant in L.A. that is open 24 hours a day, has built up a loyal and sizable clientele. The family-owned power-dining venue (we're talking politics, not Hollywood) has been around since 1921. This downtown institution is a fun place to visit: the front room is a railway car from the halcyon days of the Union Pacific, with a warm and rather clubby ambience. The service is always good here, with professional waiters, not aspiring actors, catering to your needs. At breakfast, which is actually a terrific (and less expensive) way to experience the "PDC," you might find local pols debating issues over eggs Sardou or prime rib hash. For dinner, consider the grilled half-chicken marinated in lime juice, or the lobster by the pound. But this is a venerable steakhouse, and you'll never regret such staples as crab cakes, iceberg lettuce with Roquefort vinaigrette and USDA Prime beef---buttery filet mignon, nicely marbled rib-eye, and a massive T-bone---with baked potatoes, creamed corn or addictive fried zucchini. For dessert, finish with a chocolate soufflé or cheesecake with shortbread cookie crust. The wine list features legendary names from around the globe, with plenty of full-bodied reds to match the beef-centric menu. The restaurant provides free shuttles to Staples Center and the Music Center. Also located at 2700 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310-453-4000.
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