THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Pamplona

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Pamplona Restaurant Review:

When Alex Ureña closed up shop at his eponymous restaurant and retooled it into Pamplona, there were some grumblings that he was dumbing things down. But clearly a rethink was necessary, and the result is a restaurant that’s better edited, more accessible and ultimately more enjoyable than Ureña. Even the wine list is pared down to a bare minimum of Spanish wines. Meanwhile, classics that diners crave have arrived, even if they are in a gently tweaked form. Sure, there’s gazpacho, but it’s studded with shrimp and a luxurious hit of Cabrales cheese. It pairs well with the tapas section of the menu, where Ureña is at his most playful. Small bites like ham and cheese fritters, salt cod croquettes, and a braised rabbit bocadillo (one of the better sandwiches you’ll find anywhere in Manhattan) are uniformly first-rate. Unfortunately, entrées suffer from being a bit too busy, but there are more hits than misses. Of particular note is indeed the smoky paella, which features that same braised rabbit, in addition to sausage and mussels; it’s better balanced than most other interpretations of paella in New York. Don’t miss the suckling pig, either. Poached in olive oil and served with celery root gratin and caramelized apples, it’s as decadent and tender as it sounds.