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Panache Restaurant Review: Set in the luxurious Auberge Saint-Antoine, Panache is perhaps the region’s top terroir-driven restaurant. Chef François Blais and his brigade of chefs create a heartwarming series of traditional dishes, elevated to haute cuisine status and often reinterpreted with a whimsical twist. The décor, a historic harbor warehouse with a cathedral ceiling, a central fireplace and huge beams, creates a fine setting for this food---and a comfortable one at that. Try the reconstructed pâté chinois (Blais' take on a Québec shepherd’s pie) or the macaroni and cheese made with artisanal aged cheddar, or even the mashed potatoes, to get a sense of what Blais and his crew are going for. Or take on the Quebec sweetbreads in crispy cornmeal crust with chanterelle mushrooms and truffle sauce. A nice touch is that side dishes are cooked to order and served in small casseroles and dishes. This allows diners to mix-and-match with the main courses that are based on the freshest and best local produce grown at top farms or purchased from select purveyors. From the maple-glazed spit-roasted duckling to the Magdalen Islands lobster with lemon thyme bisque, dishes are anchored in well-defined flavors and presented simply. The wine list is solid and diversified, if expensive. A very pleasant way to show that luxury and comfort food can go hand in hand.