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Pangaea Restaurant Review: With talented chef Martin Kouprie in the kitchen and skilled co-owner Peter Geary in the front of the house, this sophisticated restaurant passed its first decade with flying colors. Located in the tony Yorkville area, the savvy, well-traveled clientele expects no less. Chef Kouprie cultivates relationships with local farmers and specialty food suppliers so whatever is freshest in season ends up on the plates. Signature dishes are mahogany-glazed salmon, wild mushroom risotto and grilled calamari with beurre noisette. Depending on the time of year, you might find soft shell crab, pickerel or caribou on the menu as well. The soup selection changes daily. Pappardelle and sweetbreads with sautéed mushroom is a perennial favorite pasta. About 400 different labels on the wine list cover the globe, including an excellent selection of Canadian wines. Desserts are a tour de force and shouldn’t be skipped. Roasted rhubarb comes between layers of vanilla cream and crisp kataifi with rhubarb sorbet that’s tangy, delicate and satisfying. Ginger pear brûlée cake is jazzed with black plums, chai cream and a gingersnap. The room is all about understated elegance with high ceilings, pale yellow walls and blond wood floors. A bar tucked to one side has a divider to minimize noise.