THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Pano's & Paul's
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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Pano's & Paul's Restaurant Review: THIS ESTABLISHMENT IS CHANGING LOCATIONS Pano's & Paul's is often thought of as a conventioneer's domain, but the restaurant offers much that would appeal to the gourmet. From executive chef Gary Donlick, one may savor the battered and fried cold-water lobster tail, a forever house standard. But other delights come from his ever-creative thoughts. Consider a crock of pastry-enclosed snails for an opener. While such a preparation may seem old-school, its fine execution reminds one of how everything old can seem new again. Sweetbreads and foie gras, always first-rate, remain constants, although specific presentations vary. Other stalwarts include Maine lobster bisque, ahi tartare and loads of crab first courses. Fish and seafood prove good choices for a main dish as well, constituting perhaps half the offerings. Non-fish dishes we recommend include butter-tender breast of pheasant, the herb-roasted lamb rack and the crisp duck breast. But we think the star goes to Donlick's "29-hour" braised short ribs of beef with foie gras. Desserts include French farmhouse classics, such as clafoutis and crème brûlée. The wine list is mostly French and American, with several verticals, depth in Bordeaux, substantial offerings in Riesling and Gewürztraminer, and a downward pricing structure, although several multi-digit items remain available for splurge purposes. While there is no kids’ menu, the staff knows how to make the little people feel very special, assuming they're wearing their very best manners.