THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Parade

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Parade Restaurant Review:

Despite the modest neighbourhood address among a row of undistinguished shops, the uncompromisingly Contemporary frontage prepares diners for an extraordinary meal. Rob Jones has spent formative time at The Square and it shows: this is superbly accomplished cooking that holds its own with the major West End players. He has a rare knack for combining flavours that really resonate, whether rich and gutsy like a starter of ox tongue with chorizo and cannellini beans with a sweet, sticky bite, or exquisitely delicate, as in fennel- and tarragon-infused ragoût of oysters, mussels and salmon. Mains are handled with considerable dexterity too. Rabbit stuffed with surprisingly light black pudding was marred only by a somewhat salty Savoy cabbage, bacon and cannellini beans accompaniment. Sublimely tender haunch of venison partnered a light creamy celeriac purée with candied chunks of celeriac to give further definition to a stunning dish. White chocolate mousse was supremely refined and looked a picture with barely poached rhubarb whose flavour was accentuated by shards of candied orange peel. Inspiring wine list, extremely good, affable front-of-house and ultra-stylish interior enlivened with excellent modern art forge the link with the big sibling, Sonny’s. Set 3-course lunch £14, set 3-course lunch Sun. £18.50.