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Parc Restaurant Review: Stephen Starr’s Parc channels the chic brasseries of Paris, complete with aproned waiters delivering steak frites and skate grenoblaise and the see-and-be-seen set that vies for outside tables when the weather is fine. Classics such as warm croissants, escargots, bouillabaisse and towering plateaus de fruits de mer are complemented by an extensive wine list of predominantly French and American varietals. The French onion soup is rich and cheesy, and the dense, strident flavor of raclette makes Parc's cheeseburger worth the trip. A daily plate delivers specialties in the $26 to $34 range, including Dover sole, pork Milanese and lobster risotto. For dessert, only the profiteroles will do. This is a lively --- and loud --- scene, so go elsewhere for quiet conversation.