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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Paris Bar & Grill Restaurant Review: Staring too long at the soaring rotunda of the lobby of the new Ritz-Carlton Hotel can be like staring too long at the sun---it could blind you to your gracious surroundings. Then, you would miss the Paris Bar and Grill, tucked into the corner, like a giant Hermès scarf, all horsey pattern and glitter and dark wood. Service is more than attentive, and the American organic cuisine serves up foie gras with grilled peaches or a choice of East or West Coast oysters, with equanimity. Homey dishes like a mixed grill of pork chop, baby back ribs, and boudin noir with spatzel, get the same attention as rack of lamb with lavender, or grilled lobster in a melon broth. Chef Andrew Hewson knows the provenance of every item on the menu, like heirloom tomatoes and free-range chicken and pork. Desserts are simple, but large and rich, and the wine list (all prices in fact) is not too painful, by todays standards.