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Park Kitchen Restaurant Review: Park Kitchen’s concise, seasonally changing menu features local ingredients and offers both small and large plates. While the former are now a mainstay at many Portland establishments, they were a fresh idea when Scott Dolich --- the original chef and still owner --- opened his restaurant. Many of Dolich's dishes are classics, notably the salt cod fritters with malt vinegar, the chickpea fries with roasted squash ketchup, the flank steak and blue cheese salad, and a cone of fried green beans with tarragon aïoli. Larger selections might include hay-roasted lamb with red wine-braised quinoa, or porcini mushroom custard with cipollini onion. Sticky date pudding is a longtime favorite for dessert. Cocktails are also inspired, such as the "Pow Wow" made with bourbon, smoked lemonade and local pilsner, while the wine list showcases Pacific Northwest vintages. The intimate dining area and skilled but leisurely service make this an ideal spot for couples. On balmy days, the garage door rises onto a quiet area of the North Park Blocks where diners may sit at a few sidewalk tables.