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Park Kitchen Restaurant Review: Small plates now inhabit many menus in Portland, but they were a new concept when Scott Dolich --- original chef and still owner --- opened Park Kitchen ten years ago. His cooking makes good use of local, farm-fresh ingredients matched with a Mediterranean sensibility enlivened by unexpected flavors and pairings. Go with the tasting menu, which allows sampling many inventive dishes. A winter menu might include lamb cassoulet, while spring may bring lamb with curried spinach and walnuts. Summertime’s salmon with cucumber turns into fall’s sturgeon with mushrooms and bacon. Desserts change seasonally as well, from winter's sticky date pudding to a double chocolate tart with salted caramel and hazelnut ice cream in summer. Happily for regulars, the chickpea fries, the cone of fried green beans with aïoli, the flank steak and blue cheese salad, and tender salt cod fritters are mainstays. Cocktails are inspired, too, such as the "Pow Wow" made with bourbon, smoked lemonade and local pilsner, while the wine list highlights Pacific Northwest vintages. The intimate dining area and skilled but leisurely service make this an ideal spot for couples and small parties. On balmy days, the garage door raises onto a quiet area of the North Park Blocks, and diners may enjoy eating at a few sidewalk tables.