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Parker's on Ponce Restaurant Review: Providing a warming environment in cold weather, a pair of stacked-stone fireplaces also give focus to two spaces made more intimate by their presence. An adjacent bar area often is the scene for live music and a patio adds to the seating options. Former chef Andre Brookins has departed the restaurant and chef Angus Daunt (Muss & Turner’s) takes his place. Perennial menu favorites include the antipasto plate of cured meats and artisan cheeses and a particularly tasty French onion soup. We give high marks to the crab cake as well. Then it's on to either steaks, fish or a very good rack of lamb. Consider the bone-in "cowboy" steak, a 22-ounce rib-eye presented already sliced, making it easy to apportion. The burger is one of the city's more expensive at $19, but it's huge, made from grass-fed beef produced by Tink's Beef, located near Washington, Ga., and it comes topped with bacon from nearby Pine Street Market. Sides aplenty range from garlic mashed potatoes to smoked collards with bacon. Among desserts is a house-made cheesecake, but the dense, rich chocolate torte is compelling. Parker's wine list offers some appealing values, such as the Campo Viejo from Rioja, Spain, a Tempranillo, and a fine red-meat wine.