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Passage to India Restaurant Review: Chef-owner Sudhir Seth steps up to the plate with his awesome food, based on the concept that showcasing Indian regional cooking instead of the usual clichéd fare of tandoori chicken and lamb vindaloo might help teach Americans about the diversity of his country's cuisine. Structuring a unique menu, he relegates his cooking to the four points of the compass: From the West comes the chutney ni murgi, a Parsi chicken dish, or gatta curry from Rajasthan, or our favorite, the salli boti jardaloo, a Parsi-style lamb stew sweetened gently with apricots. From the East: shorshe bata machh (fish in mustard sauce) or panchphorner parmal shaak (baby gourds). From the South: tamarind shrimp or paruppu colombu (lentils flavored with curry leaf), and from the more familiar North: makhni dal and goat curry. All these, plus many more, make for a fascinating menu.