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Passionfish Restaurant Review: Overfished species are turned away at the door of this establishment. Instead, it’s invitation only for abundant undersea creatures such as sablefish, tilapia and sturgeon. Chef Ted Walter does fish right, sealing in flavor and translucency through simple cooking techniques. His wife Cindy, who comes from a fishing family (her father, a wharf rat), tends to the front of the house. The amicable wine list draws its own congregation; bottles are priced just above retail with over 300 selections of local California varietals and rarer gems allowing for experimentation. The menu changes almost daily. Standouts include a lusty salad loaded with fresh crab and avocado --- tender and spicy with its ginger vinaigrette. Side dishes may arrive unnecessarily overdressed and appear as thinly disguised reruns (for example: wasabi slaw versus lemon grass slaw) but main events such as striped bass swimming in gremolata broth and sea scallops drizzled with tomato-truffle butter are sure to please. Drink your dessert from a long list of diverse libations (there’s a Dr. Loosen Riesling, even chrysanthemum tea). Then pocket your take-home Seafood Watch guide and leave enlightened.