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6719 N. Oshkosh Ave. Send to Phone

Dinner Thurs.-Sat.

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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Patricio Restaurant Review

: Patrick Concannon, chef at Don Juan’s, finally did what he wanted to do for a few years: He opened a separate little restaurant around the corner to showcase the upscale specials that always stood out from the mostly mediocre Mexican food. The storefront, which shares Don Juan’s kitchen, has limited hours (it’s used for private parties other nights), about eight white-clothed tables, a couple of floral arrangements, and menus from famous spots like Aureole and The Quilted Giraffe on the wall. Perhaps Concannon views them as mentors, because except for some of the ingredients, his cooking seems less Latin all the time. Yellowfin tuna tartare, wild mushroom cavatelli, herb-crusted scallops with crostini and tomato-basil salsa, and roasted pheasant with caramelized garlic sauce are cases in point. Of course, every rule has exceptions, and the barbecued duck taquitos mated with foie gras and corn pudding is a marvelous one. Desserts are nothing special, but the wine list offers lots of offbeat, reasonably priced choices by the glass or bottle, and you can make up your own flight of four tasting portions for $10. Service tends to be pleasant but pokey.
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