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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Peristyle Restaurant Review: There is a veneer of timelessness in the graceful dining room and bar, yet it's hard to imagine a fine New Orleans restaurant that has seen as much upheaval in so few years. Chef John Neal opened Peristyle in 1992. His protégé Anne Kearney Sand took over in 1995 and proceeded to build its stature to the top tier of New Orleans restaurants. It was gutted by fire in 1999 and rebuilt. Then, in 2004, Kearney sold the place to chef Tom Wolfe. Charcuterie is a major specialty of the house and changes constantly. The best of the beautiful, petite salads are composed with a jeweler's eye to presentation, like a pear salad with its fruit arranged like petals and stained dark purple after being poached in Pinot Noir. Large sea scallops have a regal, crown-like crust around the top and are paired with chanterelles, a satisfying mushroom sauce and fried leeks. Squab has long been a specialty, and it remains one for Wolfe. The changes here may disappoint those who conjure only halcyon memories of the place, but by any realistic standard, Peristyle remains a destination for creative preparations. The wine list focuses on old-world wines, especially from Provence and Languedoc, but with smatterings from around the world. Many are offered by the glass.