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Phat Thai Restaurant Review: Chef-owner Mark Fisher's casual Phat Thai occupies a converted nineteenth-century storefront. The soft brick walls and a distinctive tin ceiling give this busy restaurant an old-timey look. Locals congregate at the bar or at a long, communal table that runs down the center of the room. Other seating includes comfortable banquettes along the wall or tables situated by the windows. Chef Fisher serves simple Thai food, made from traditional Thai recipes and bursting with flavor. We started with a mango-colored chicken-coconut soup (tom kha gai) and a lingeringly hot shrimp and lemon grass soup (tom yum goong). A familiar dish like pad thai has a pleasant hint of tamarind. Another standout entrée is the five-spice pork spare ribs (see krong moo ob) tempered with a cool cucumber mint sauce. The desserts are a treat, especially the coconut sorbet and the kaffir lime crème brûlée. All of the wines on the small, eccentric but affordable list are available by large or small glass. You might try Babich Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough, New Zealand, or Wunsch et Mann Pinot Blanc from Alsace, France.