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Pho Pasteur Restaurant Review: The name of this longstanding Vietnamese joint in Chinatown says it all: huge bowls of noodle soup, or pho, in a variety of permutations draw most native and curious pho-philes. Plus there are some tasty alternatives. The bun, or vermicelli-based dishes, are soul-satisfying on a cold day. In the summer, meanwhile, soft-shell crabs tossed with a mix of jalapeños and lemon grass are a piquant treat. Once the only game in town for Vietnamese, Pho Pasteur no longer stands out, but it hasn’t slipped markedly downhill either.