Julian Serrano has a real task on his hands: making diners forget about the $35 million in real Picasso paintings that hang naked (under no glass) in the restaurant. Also setting the stage: vaulted ceilings, glorious floral arrangements and elegantly dressed tables pushed comfortably apart. Since Picasso spent much of his life in the South of France and Spain, those are the influences Spanish-born Serrano follows. What's on the plate is straightforward, but presentations are dramatic, rich in vivid and contrasting colors, as well as---yes---delicious enough to distract attention from all those Picassos. Surrender to such delicacies as the pan-seared sea scallops with potato mousseline and jus de veau; Maine lobster salad with apple-Champagne vinaigrette; and sautéed filet of halibut with ragoût of Corona beans, Serrano ham, vegetables and mushrooms. Serrano has a way with foie gras---if it's on the menu, order it, such as the foie gras au torchon with grapes and port reduction. As Las Vegas becomes crowded with top fine-dining restaurants, we have an affinity for Picasso. The main reason is that, in contrast to most of Vegas' other imports which are associated with a famous chef, here the culinary star himself does the cooking. Master sommelier Robert Smith juggles a 20,000-plus bottle cellar with finesse. |