THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Pizzavino 707

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Pizzavino 707 Restaurant Review:

Much hullabaloo surrounded the prior incarnation, West County Grill, because of New York chef creds. Alas, the kitchen never found its way, nor did the too-chichi-for-Sebastopol concept. One of the partners in that venture, Stephen Singer, returns for what seems a smarter bet: wood-fired pizzas and other creations sourced from local ingredients (707 indicates the local area code). Instantly welcoming is the menu’s relaxed pricing, which now matches the casual space: brick walls, industrial lamps, unfinished wood framing around patchwork windows, banquette facing the open kitchen. Thin-crust pizzas come slightly charred on their lightweight edges, more for effect than extra depth. Some tantalize with flavor and creativity: squash blossom with Parmesan, the paper-thin pressed flowers keeping their color but tasting caramelized; or heirloom tomato with arugula and pesto, farm egg oozing across the epicenter. Watch for occasional baffling taste misses: bland bacon with ricotta, spinach and lemon vinaigrette, and sausage with cheddar dominated by a suspicious blue cheese overtone. One nightly entrée and several appetizers add range. Thoughtfully priced Italian and California wines, a patio, plus pool table tucked discreetly upstairs help make the place habit-forming. Or, order boxed pizzas for pickup.