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Port of Call Restaurant Review: Burger joints seem to be opening at breakneck speed in New Orleans, but check out the corner of Esplanade and Dauphine streets any evening, and you’re likely to find a line of people waiting for a table at this rustic little neighborhood joint. Start with a voluminous plastic cup of the Monsoon, a riff on the Hurricane. You'll need it to smooth out your demeanor while waiting for a seat. Then, you'll descend to the dark, cramped eating spaces. It’s actually more fun to grab a spot at the elbow-to-elbow, wrap-around bar where people-watching is an art form. The burgers are worth the hassle, and charbroiled steaks also go down easily. Functional rather than fussy is the service style; the waitstaff knows there are plenty more customers queued up behind you. Be prepared: no desserts, no separate checks, no wine list, and no substitutions --- and yet, you’ll probably be back time and time again.