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Port of Call Restaurant Review: There’s a valid reason for the ever-present line of would-be customers waiting on the sidewalk outside Port of Call. Approach this experience by enjoying a voluminous plastic cup brimming with a drink called the Monsoon, a riff on the Hurricane. It will help smooth out your demeanor while waiting for a seat. Then, you'll descend to the dark, cramped eating spaces. It’s actually more fun to grab a spot at the elbow-to-elbow, wraparound bar where people-watching is an art form. Burgers are worth the hassle, and charbroiled steaks also go down easily. Functional rather than fussy is the service style; waitstaff knows there are plenty more customers queued up behind you. Be prepared: no desserts; no separate checks; no wine list; and no substitutions --- and yet, you’ll likely return time and time again.