Pranna
79 Madison Ave. (29th St.) 
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New York, NY 10016
212-696-5700 | Make Restaurant Reservations
 The owners of Pranna hope that it can be more than a pretty face, but when you walk into the two-level, 15,000-square-foot space, it’s clear that looks are a substantial part of the equation. Handsome dark wood tables, white walls with geometric cut-outs revealing gold flourishes and white banquettes give Pranna a very contemporary vibe. The menu’s inspiration is supposedly more traditional, as it’s based on a road trip across Southeast Asia undertaken by chef Chai Trivedi on his Honda motorcycle. The closest the menu comes to combustion is with the spate of grilled satays, like those made with minced shrimp or swordfish topped with garam masala yogurt. Pranna excels at these finger foods, from a well-executed lamb slider gilded with green apple relish to something as simple as wok-fried cashews. The entrées and larger dishes are not as strong, in part due to the huge volume that the kitchen undertakes and also because they’re hardly reminiscent of Asia at all. A bland hanger steak seasoned with cumin and duck breast with a timid yellow curry all feel like they belong on a different menu. Still, if you’re willing to graze and stick with the more authentic fare, you’ll find that Pranna has some depth after all.
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