THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Pres a Vi

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Pres a Vi Restaurant Review:

In size and stylized atmosphere, this moneyed restaurant in the Letterman Digital Arts Center is more South Bay than San Francisco---except for its very local, spectacular views. A large, full bar fronts a sweeping dining room partitioned by low walls, glass and banquettes, with further rooms in back and a glass-enclosed wine cavern. Choices from the hefty international wine list are apportioned into friendly flights---three pours, priced by amount, of related or mixed styles. (Don’t miss the lively descriptions of each, written by an otherwise absent wine director---though servers do provide some guidance.) Chef Kelly Degala’s small plates ($9-$19 each, three recommended per person) include lots of cool and hot meat, fish and seafood options with Asian and European accents. Though innovative---enough to please the expense-account set that fills the space---many of the dishes can be tough to pair with wine. Slabs of Peruvian-style hamachi sashimi rest in blood orange oil and are spiced with dabs of kicky aïoli. Small, sweet, steamed Chinese buns are stuffed with shredded Peking duck confit, hoisin and cilantro. Korean-style grilled Wagyu beef atop crunchy, green papaya salad is finished with a hot, sweet onion kimchi. Generous dessert tastings such as the trio of chocolate---a truffle purse, brioche pudding and sour cream cake---make for sticky, sweet endings.