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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Primo Restaurant Review: Art glass and giant Art Deco posters advertising European aperitifs accent the stylish dining room of this hip Italian restaurant. Settle into a booth by the window to watch the passing sidewalk scene. At the other end of the long dining room is the bustling open kitchen with a brick, wood-fired oven, the flames visible even from the restaurant entrance. That oven is the source of authentic Italian pizzas with cracker-thin crusts. The classic margherita is here, as is the Toscana with grilled wild mushrooms, pancetta, Parmesan and fennel and a white pizza with chicken and artichokes. The menu changes every two weeks, so regulars are faced with a delightful dilemma: a favorite dish, such as garlic-scented grilled flank steak may have disappeared, but some new wonder, a fine spaghetti carbonara, for example, will take its place. Oven-roasted chicken, whatever the saucing (though mustard is the standout), is always worth ordering. If you are in a lighter mood, the sharable platter of the evening's selection of antipasti makes a wonderful main course for one. Those with a sweet tooth should try the house-made panna cotta or the "imported" (from a local maker) authentic gelato. The Italian wine list is color coded to a map of Italy's wine-growing regions; look for some fine buys on the $20 per bottle portion of the list.