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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Provence Restaurant Review: Provençal cheer comes to the buttoned-down western suburbs in the form of this lofty dining room with sponged yellow walls and halogen-lit, exposed duct-work. The neighborhood crowd, peppered with types from Haverford and Bryn Mawr colleges, takes in stride the untried but eager to please waitresses, for they appreciate the French concept in the kitchen. A small, selective, heavily French wine list helps. A sprightly pear, watercress, and Roquefort salad comes in a pretty, (and tasty) cheese tuile cup. Escargots are fat and tender, but their presentation lacks dash. The venison in a fig Burgundy sauce is meaty and tender as well, and grilled salmon is well-served by a sauce of lemon confit cream. The inevitable crème brûlée comes for dessert, but a messy apple tart with honey-fig ice cream is better.