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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED QC Restaurant Review: Inventive, sophisticated, beautifully crafted: these are the plaudits heaped on young Jun Tanaka, whose previous stints include The Oak Room, The Square, the Capital and Chives. In a hotel converted from an insurance society's headquarters, the dining room is dignified board-room style, saved by Oriental touches. But the cooking is far from staid. Using a mix of influences, he teams pan-fried sea bass with chorizo piperade; tempura of red mullet comes with ginger escabeche and cauliflower purée. Service is superb, the wine list good.