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Quadrato Restaurant Restaurant Review: If you’re after classic Italian cooking with a light, modern touch, mostly inspired by the north of Italy, Quadrato will fit the bill. It’s in the Four Seasons hotel, in a pretty room which has the great advantage of a large outdoor terrace for summer dining. Menus follow the classic pattern, with enough variety in each course to make choosing difficult, though there is an excellent Italian-style tapas menu as well. Choose, perhaps, antipasti like grilled octopus with rocket, olive tapenade and tomato jam or seared scallops with crispy pork belly. Follow with slow-cooked baby chicken with roast potatoes and peperonata, a punchy fish stew or seared sea bass with basil mash. Desserts might be chocolate mousse with passion fruit sorbet or try the masterly tiramisu. Cheese lovers should go for the cheese board; you’ll find it hard to sample so much first-rate Italian cheese at one sitting anywhere else. Brunch is purely Tuscan and is a pretty good bet at any time of the year. You can watch the kitchen through a glass panel, a neat counterpoint to the low-lit interior, all hues of black currant and brown set off with a cube motif. Italian wines are to the fore and the front-of-house has an efficient charm. Sun. brunch buffet £42 (£50 on certain holidays). Set 2-course lunch £40, 3 courses £45, set dinner £45, 3 courses £50.