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Quartet Restaurant Review: Restaurateur Frank Taylor has forged an ambitious venture in the multimillion dollar space that formerly housed Lucifer. Excess silver and gold have been replaced by wood and glass. Only three of the original 20 Dale Chihuly glass sculptures remain, but a river channel spanned by seven "bridges" still runs through the dining area, the bathroom doors are still leather-padded, and the view of the Willamette River and East Side skyline is still striking. Service is warm and professional, and musicians provide background entertainment on a grand piano. However, the food doesn't yet match up to the dramatic atmosphere. The menu is unfocused, and not every dish meets the high expectations induced by the elegant setting and expense account pricing. But this doesn't mean you can't enjoy a satisfying meal. Expect steakhouse standards such as Caesar salad, truffled lobster mac ‘n’ cheese and, of course, large slabs of tender meat. But the most interesting options are seafood, drawing on chef Adam Kekahuna's Hawaiian heritage. Try the rich ahi tower --- architectural food at its best. Halibut atop a three legged platform of deep-fried asparagus sushi is tasty and creative. Deep-fried lobster --- a nod to Taylor's Southern background --- is a sumptuous construction of crispy coating, tender, sweet shellfish, and a spicy etouffée sauce. For dessert, enjoy the retro bananas Foster flamed tableside. The wine list is extensive and surprisingly reasonable, while many find the bar a glamorous spot to spend an evening.