 Quay Restaurant Review: Finding a home in the labyrinthine space that once housed De La Costa, this expansive Streeterville seafood lounge overlooks the Ogden slip of the Chicago River. It's impressive with its sweeping booths, glowy columns and happening bar. The edited menu, which comes from Nolan Narut (David Burke’s Primehouse), never reaches too far, though it is filled with pretty, seafood-centric things: pristine raw oysters with stand-out cucumber mignonette; plump shrimp cocktail with classic cocktail sauce; and surf and turfy pan-seared scallops atop braised short ribs with sweet parsnip purée and chard. Even the fish fry---a cornucopia of beer-battered cod, panko-crusted scallops and shrimp, shoestring fries and slaw---has mass appeal. Does the menu excite? Not really, since there’s nothing risky about a roasted beet salad or a trio of sliders (burger, braised short rib, lobster salad). But sometimes you’re not in the mood for risks---like during the wee hours, after a few too many cocktails. Come to think of it, there’s probably no better time to justify flourless chocolate s’mores cake, complete with toasted marshmallow.
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