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Rathbun's Restaurant Review: Kevin Rathbun’s dream restaurant has textured walls --- brick on one side and block on the other --- that are low lit for atmosphere, and high ceilings showcase industrial elements. The problem is, the space badly needs sound attenuation. For quiet dining, sit on the very well sheltered patio or in the private dining room, which holds overflow space if not being used for private dining. Patrons come for a glass of wine and a couple of small or raw plates after work, then plan serious dining for another occasion. Dishes change with the seasons, but the sweet bone marrow has much to offer, and the accompaniments have become more refined to showcase the sweetness of this morsel. Fine starters include the crab tart or the salty, tangy fried Greek cheese. Braised short rib of beef, sparked by five-spice powder, is as tender a meat as one could want. The smoked beef brisket is another attractive possibility, with its accompanying cheese orecchiette that could be a center-of-plate main dish for a vegetarian. The small desserts --- a trend we hope prevails --- change almost daily, so it's anybody's guess what will be available, but it's no guesswork at all that they will be worth the few calories, especially if made with chocolate. The wine list, although not extensive, is varied and well composed, with a lot of good choices by the glass.