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Red Fish Grill Restaurant Review: Anyone who thinks nothing new or original can be done with seafood in New Orleans needs just one meal at Red Fish Grill. The restaurant’s several dining spaces spill over with whimsy and energy, and that concept follows through to the kitchen. The menu specializes in clever riffs on local favorites, usually to good effect. Seasonal entrées keep the menu fresh and inviting. In autumn, look for hickory-grilled fish, while summer brings lighter lump crab meat specialties. The chef treats Gulf fish tenderly: whole red snapper is served with tangy tomato aïoli; crispy Louisiana catfish pairs with traditional shrimp Creole; wood-grilled redfish is accompanied by tasso ham and mushroom potatoes. Double chocolate bread pudding and a bananas Foster ice cream with rum caramel supply over-the-top desserts. A long, cool oyster bar provides a good perch for knocking back a dozen bivalves. As with all of Ralph Brennan’s restaurants, the wine list is extensive and well-conceived. Pay special attention to the limited offerings under “Unique Whites” and “Unique Reds,” a rotating section of distinctive and selective brands. Red Fish Grill features one of the French Quarter’s liveliest happy hours, which takes place at the oyster bar, where a full bar menu is available.