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Red Onion Restaurant Review: Thai restaurants are a dime-a-dozen in Portland, but this one stands out from the crowd. The draw is chef Dang Boonyakamol's consistently authentic Thai dishes that offer value for the price. Located in the busy NW 23rd Avenue shopping district and across from Good Samaritan Hospital, the restaurant always has a crowd so be prepared to wait on weekend nights. The lengthy menu covers both Thai standards and less well known dishes from Boonyakamol's native North Thailand. For appetizers, we recommend the deep-fried calamari tubes stuffed with a mixture of ground pork, shrimp, cilantro, onion and carrot that predominates over the breading and provides a satisfying burst of flavor. Dungeness crab-fried rice includes a generous amount of the delectable, but expensive, crustacean. Other seafood hits range from the chu chee catfish (battered and fried catfish topped with curry, mango, asparagus, bell pepper, coconut milk and lime leaves) to a seafood medley with shrimp, scallops, mussels, squid and crab meat. All of the curries are exciting, particularly the unusual stir-fried ginger and the lemon chicken. And for those who want what's familiar, the pad thai is one of the best in town.