* Click here for rating key
THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Red Room Restaurant Review: The era of the supper club is reborn at the Red Room, swathed in enough shades of that color, from the drapery to the carpeting and the puffy banquettes, to test the tolerance of a lipstick manufacturer. Visual effects are a preoccupation in the kitchen, too, which drizzles essences and sauces on most of the plates. The fussiness didn't overshadow the good flavors of caramelized scallops in vanilla-bean beurre blanc, or boned duckling brushed with a demi-glace flavored with molasses and citrus, or the super-thin carpaccio of beef displaying shavings of mild-tasting grana podana cheese. Desserts are the standouts here. The red velvet cake was a moist delight, and the banana parfait was a model of frothy richness.