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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Redmond's Restaurant Review: THIS ESTABLISHMENT IS CLOSED An exemplary neighbourhood restaurant whose eclectic, contemporary style is more than a match for many fashionable West End openings. Chef-proprietor Redmond Haywood proposes a classically based and very exciting cooking in dishes like seared mackerel fillet with celeriac and lime purée, or a terrine of chicken, pigeon and foie gras with garlic cream topped with shallots roasted in honey and lemon. Main dishes go down the same imaginative, thoughtful route, mixing ordinary and luxury ingredients as in duck breast with crushed butternut squash, small applet tart and seared foie gras, with thyme jus. A small kitchen and tiny staff (overseen by Pippa Heywood) can mean longish waits between courses on busy nights, but a well-researched wine list makes amends for most hiccups in service. Standout puddings include tarte Tatin with Calvados ice cream. The cheery blue and yellow décor is enhanced with a changing gallery of often first-rate paintings for sale. Mon.-Thurs, 2-course set dinner £24, 3 courses £27; Fri.-Sat. 2 course dinner £37.50, 3 courses £32.