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Relish Restaurant Review: Matthew Fackler is a chef wholly smitten with bold flavors, the changing seasons, indelible ingredients and creating innovative food inspired by the state in which he lives. His nuanced mountain restaurant, surrounded by mile-high peaks, is handsome and comfortable, the kind of place where you can kick back and relax over baked escargots flecked with fresh herbs or a mound of habanero-spiced shrimp and a glass of wine from a sophisticated, but accessible list that pleases both the shy and the studied. Fackler also does impressive things with beef, char-grilling a hanger steak to a proper mid-rare and saucing it with a pancetta bordelaise; and to fish, most notably a salt-crusted ruby red trout that he bolsters with toasted basmati rice and spring vegetables puddled in a Champagne broth. The servers are every bit as polished as Fackler's food, which is really something to relish in a resort town that goes through waitstaff like most of us go through chewing gum.