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Relish Restaurant Review: Matthew Fackler is a chef wholly smitten with bold flavors, the changing seasons and the idea of creating innovative food inspired by the state in which he lives. His nuanced mountain restaurant, surrounded by mile-high peaks, is handsome and comfortable, the kind of place where you can kick back and relax over baked escargots in chile-lime-pistachio butter or Indian-spiced lamb lollipops with apricot chutney alongside a glass of wine from a sophisticated but accessible list that pleases both the shy and the studied. Fackler also does impressive things with beef, char-grilling a hanger steak to a proper mid-rare and saucing it with a pancetta bordelaise, and to fish, most notably a Parmesan-crusted ruby red trout that he bolsters with fingerlings in hazelnut brown butter. Expect the cream of Colorado’s fruit crop on the dessert menu --- and in the cocktails. Servers are every bit as polished as the food and drink, which is really something to relish in a resort town that goes through waitstaff like most of us go through chewing gum.