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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Renegade by MOD Restaurant Review: Chef Michael O’Dowd, who formerly ran the kitchen at Kai, has the chops for just about any kind of cooking. Here, his dishes --- all with twists --- are served in an eccentric setting where a Day-of-the-Dead street-art mural shares space with chandeliers stuck with industrial bulbs. What to call the cuisine? Edgy, global and a bit confusing, but it mostly works. Prepare for a tornado of flavors and lots of rich, fat and sweet tastes in signatures like the pork belly infused with vanilla, drizzled with maple-sherry vinegar and served with peach cobbler, or foie gras-topped dates swimming in maple syrup. Sometimes, simpler is better, as in the salad of mushrooms, purslane, asparagus, celery root and rutabaga whip, or the burger, though it’s more succulent than the average version, crafted with pork, chuck and buffalo. For dining drama, don’t miss the seafood in a bag, cut and poured tableside, and then settle in for a fun dessert, the moon pie alongside a cola-crème anglaise shake, perhaps. Wine is fine, but this is a cocktail kind of place, and each drink is concocted with enough ingredients to fill a recipe book.