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Restaurant Gwendolyn Restaurant Review: Michael Sohocki cut his local cooking teeth in Andrew Weissman’s kitchens --- including revered Le Rêve. He’s now back in that same kitchen with his own restaurant, named after his grandmother. But Sohocki also honors the past when it comes to his culinary vision: no devices developed after 1850 are allegedly admitted. In addition, only products sourced within a 150-mile radius are considered. The quest hasn’t necessarily been easy, and Sohocki tweaked lunch into a soup-and-sandwich arrangement. Dinner retains its multi-course tasting format, however, and options, all with purveyors indicated, have included butternut squash bisque, a hickory-smoked chicken roulade over lentils, citrus sorbet, baked ham with red-eye gravy, and orange panna cotta with Champagne gelée. True, it’s not always easy to taste South Texas on the plate, but techniques are nevertheless solid, the small plates beautifully presented, and at the end of an evening one will feel very well served indeed.