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Restaurant Gwendolyn Restaurant Review: Michael Sohocki cut his cooking teeth in Andrew Weissman’s kitchens, including revered Le Rêve. He’s now back in that same kitchen with his own restaurant, named after his grandmother. But Sohocki also honors the past when it comes to his culinary vision: no devices developed after 1850 are allegedly admitted. (Adios, Cuisinart.) In addition, only products sourced within a 150-mile radius are considered. The quest hasn’t necessarily been easy, and after much flirting with lunch, Sohocki has wisely decided to abandon it. (He has, however, opened a ramen restaurant next door in the former Sandbar space.) Dinner retains its three- and five-course tasting format, and seasonal options, all with purveyors indicated, have included fresh oysters with grapefruit gelée, quail galantine with balsamic reduction, Meyer lemon sorbet, beef bourguignon with potato gnocchi, and caraway seed cake with rosemary-parsley ice cream. Techniques are solid, the small plates beautifully presented, and at the end of an evening, one will feel perfectly prepared for a post-prandial stroll along the River Walk below.