happy to report that the "Daniel experience"
is as satisfying and luxurious as ever. Even with his eye on the opening of his next venture, Bar Boulud, and the
responsibility of three other restaurants bearing
his name, Boulud shows no sign of letting his scepter slip
in his role as this Venetian palace's lord of the manor.
He rules with a mélange of "informed hominess
and truffle-steeped excess."