Resto Restaurant Review: With Belgo dead and gone and Markt relocated to a smaller space, the Belgian craze of the late ’90s in New York is long since passed, and options for low country fare remain limited. Deviating from the standard frites formula, Resto has revived Belgium’s cuisine in the foodie consciousness, spinning it into something jaded New York palates will crave. The kitchen takes plenty of liberties, but consider them instead necessary adaptations. What would otherwise be a standard deviled egg is served atop “pork baguette”: guanciale, chopped and mixed with breadcrumbs before it is pressed, fried, and placed under the egg. It is a spectacular burst of flavor. The pork belly and endive, meanwhile, is a brisk combination of tart and savory flavors. Entrées are protein heavy, and the carbonnade, reinvented from the Belgian staple as beef cheeks stewed with whiskey, coffee and beer flavoring and served atop fries, is pleasurable. Surprisingly, the fries fall short---they’re not crispy enough by half. Of course there’s moules frites as well, but the small plates are where the real action is. The selection of 60 Belgian beers, from Affligem to Westmalle, is extensive. Chocolates, another Belgian specialty, are served in the manner of after-dinner cheese, with peanut brittle to cleanse the palate. There’s no question: Belgium is back.
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