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THIS RESTAURANT HAS CHANGED NAMES Rhodes W1 Restaurant Review: Gary Rhodes' restaurant completes the trio of eating places in The Cumberland hotel, joining his bar and Brasserie. The décor in the restaurant is glamorous, designed by Kelly Hoppen with plenty of chandeliers over the tables, comfortable chairs, and taupe which is either tasteful or too much. Rhodes has made his name by championing gutsy British cooking, but here it is modified with French classics. The food is very good indeed---mackerel in honey and sesame caramel with baby squid, sea purslane and rice, followed by sirloin of beef with fricassée of asparagus, onions and mushrooms with crisp sweetbread, and desserts like chocolate sorbet with peanut butter ganache and rum jelly. The wine list is mainly French, and while more suited to business expense accounts than mere mortals does have some good, modestly priced wines. Service is delightful. If you want to eat more modestly, go for the Brasserie with its simpler menu of grills, pastas and so on. Restaurant: set 2-course lunch £25.95, 3 courses £32.95; Sunday roast 3 courses £25.