The Richmond

The Richmond Restaurant Review:

Balboa and Sixth Avenue has never been much of a gastronomic destination, until now. First-time restaurateur John Owyang is no stranger to fine kitchens --- he cooked at 231 Ellsworth, Elisabeth Daniel and Masa's under Ron Siegel. His unique sense of taste and texture and love of organic and local products combine to create dishes like potato leek soup with Dungeness crab dumplings (the slow-cooked soup is filtered four times to silky effect), and airy crab-filled wonton perfect for dipping. While many menus of late seem to be swimming with pan-seared sea scallops, Owyang's version involves warm chervil butter gliding down the sides of plump, moist diver scallops into a pool of deconstructed clam chowder. Even the pre-meal bread is a treat --- crisp sourdough baguette served with a trio of flavored butters: sea salt, kalamata olive and parsley-tarragon. For dessert, try the warm Valrhona chocolate tart; the crème de cacao cream, carbonated with an aerator, provides an effervescent surprise. The small wine list offers some good deals, but several bottles over $300 seem out of place. Quaint but elegant ambience suits the neighborhood setting.