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The Riverhead Project Restaurant Review: This snazzy locale would seem more at home in the Hamptons than in Riverhead, but owner Dennis McDermott knows what he's doing. The restaurant is smack-dab in the middle of the area most locals need to pass throughout the year, which means that the atmosphere is a combination of friendly corner eatery in the winter and on weeknights, and a destination for a glitzy, beautiful clientele in the summer and on weekends. Everyone is welcome to enjoy the cooking of chef Gregory Ling, formerly of The Frisky Oyster. We suggest the seasonal salads prepared with local ingredients, particularly the grilled romaine with whipped feta, an interesting combination of flavors and textures. Move on to North African-inspired rack of lamb or the classic grilled Montauk swordfish. A selection of international and local Long Island beers and wines is available.